Kenya and Tanzania
28th July - 30th August 2009
← The journey begins!
This report follows the travels of two Canadians, Robin and Robert, as they self-drive through the Mara in Kenya and the Northern Circuit of Tanzania in August 2009. The report is written by Robin and credit for the photos goes to Robert.
The report begins with a list of resources that we found helpful at the planning stage. This is followed by our itinerary accompanied by a map on which our route is highlighted.
The itinerary is followed by a list of highlights accompanied by some of our favourite photos. Note that the photos may be enlarged by clicking on them.
Following the highlights, there is a very brief list of lowlights - there weren't many! Eventually, there will be a day to day account of the trip, which will be accompanied by many more photos - this is a work in progress.
Robert and I wish to thank Meregan, Charles, Clare, Carly and Lizzie of Safari Drive for another trip of a lifetime. We are most grateful to you all.
Enjoy! Robin
28th July - 30th August 2009
← The journey begins!
This report follows the travels of two Canadians, Robin and Robert, as they self-drive through the Mara in Kenya and the Northern Circuit of Tanzania in August 2009. The report is written by Robin and credit for the photos goes to Robert.
The report begins with a list of resources that we found helpful at the planning stage. This is followed by our itinerary accompanied by a map on which our route is highlighted.
The itinerary is followed by a list of highlights accompanied by some of our favourite photos. Note that the photos may be enlarged by clicking on them.
Following the highlights, there is a very brief list of lowlights - there weren't many! Eventually, there will be a day to day account of the trip, which will be accompanied by many more photos - this is a work in progress.
Robert and I wish to thank Meregan, Charles, Clare, Carly and Lizzie of Safari Drive for another trip of a lifetime. We are most grateful to you all.
Enjoy! Robin
Trip planning:
After much reading and online research, we drew up an itinerary and then contacted Safari Drive (http://www.safaridrive.com), specialist African operators based in the UK, who had been recommended in the Bradt Guide to Botswana (http://www.bradtguides.com) and with whose assistance we had completed a self-drive through Botswana in 2008. Safari Drive once again shared their expertise and offered advice, provided us with a fully equipped Land Rover, looked after our campsite and lodge bookings, arranged all land transfers and generally made things a whole lot easier. We were once again very grateful that we had learned of Safari Drive through the Bradt guide.
At the planning stage, we found the following very helpful:
The Safari Drive website http://www.safaridrive.com
The Bradt Guide to Tanzania (ISBN: 978-84162-153-1) by Philip Briggs
The Rough Guide to Kenya 2006 (ISBN: 978-1-84353-651-2) by Richard Trillo
Lonely Planet’s Tanzania 2008 (ABN: 36-005-607-983) by Mary Fitzpatrick
Fodor’s Africa and the Middle East Forum http://www.fodors.com
The Tourist Travel and Field Guide of the Serengeti National Park by Veronica Roodt (ISBN: 0-620-34190-4)
The Tourist Travel and Field Guide of the Ngorongoro Conservation Area by Veronica Roodt (ISBN: 0-620-34191-2
We found our way with a Garmin 60CX GPS, on which we loaded the Tracks4Africa Kenya, Tanzania and Uganda map, which we purchased from the Tracks4Africa website (http://www.tracks4africa.co.za) for R175.00 (~CDN$25). It saved us from becoming hopelessly lost on several occasions.
We also found the following paper/hard copy maps very helpful - we purchased all maps in advance online from http://www.omnimap.com.
The Tourist Map of the Serengeti National Park by Veronica Roodt 2005 edition http://www.veronicaroodt.co.za
Tourist Map of the Ngorongoro Conservation Area by Veronica Roodt 2006 edition
The New Map of Serengeti National Park Wet/Dry Season 2007 by Giovanni Tombazzi http://www.gtmaps.com
The New Map of Northern Tanzania 2007 by Giovanni Tombazzi
Lake Manyara National Park Wet Season/Dry Season by Giovanni Tombazzi with Hoopoe Adventure Tours, Tanzania
New Map of Tarangire National Park (Wet/Dry Season) 2008 by Giovanni Tombazzi
New Map of the Ngorongoro Conservation Area 2003 by Giovanni Tombazzi
Masai Mara Visitor Map Guide by Jacana Maps http://www.jacana.co.za
Itinerary:
30 July House of Waine, Nairobi, Kenya http://www.houseofwaine.com
31 July – 1 August Serian Camp, Masai Mara North Conservancy, Kenya http://www.serian.net
2 August – 7 August Maji Ya Ndege Special Campsite, Mara Triangle, Kenya, http://www.maratriangle.org
8 August Serian Camp, Masai Mara North Conservancy, Kenya http://www.serian.net
9 August Speke Bay Lodge, Tanzania http://www.spekebay.com or http://www.moivaro.com
10–11 August Mareo Special Campsite, Western Corridor, Serengeti National Park, Tanzania, http://www.tanzaniaparks.com
12 August Turner 1 Special Campsite, Seronera, Serengeti National Park, Tanzania
13-15 August Lobo 1 Special Campsite, Lobo, Serengeti National Park, Tanzania
16 August Turner 1 Special Campsite, Seronera, Serengeti National Park, Tanzania
17 August Olduvai Tented Camp, Ngorongoro Conservation Area, Tanzania http://www.africatravelresource.com
18-19 August Lemala Camp, Ngorongoro Crater, http://www.lemalacamp.com
20 August Arusha Coffee Lodge, Arusha, Tanzania http://www.elewana.com
21-23 August Bagayo 1 Special Campsite, Lake Manyara National Park, Tanzania, http://www.tanzaniaparks.com
24-26 August Mbweha Special Campsite, Tarangire National Park, Tanzania, http://www.tanzaniaparks.com
27 August Rivertrees Country Inn, Arusha, Tanzania http://www.rivertrees.com
After much reading and online research, we drew up an itinerary and then contacted Safari Drive (http://www.safaridrive.com), specialist African operators based in the UK, who had been recommended in the Bradt Guide to Botswana (http://www.bradtguides.com) and with whose assistance we had completed a self-drive through Botswana in 2008. Safari Drive once again shared their expertise and offered advice, provided us with a fully equipped Land Rover, looked after our campsite and lodge bookings, arranged all land transfers and generally made things a whole lot easier. We were once again very grateful that we had learned of Safari Drive through the Bradt guide.
At the planning stage, we found the following very helpful:
The Safari Drive website http://www.safaridrive.com
The Bradt Guide to Tanzania (ISBN: 978-84162-153-1) by Philip Briggs
The Rough Guide to Kenya 2006 (ISBN: 978-1-84353-651-2) by Richard Trillo
Lonely Planet’s Tanzania 2008 (ABN: 36-005-607-983) by Mary Fitzpatrick
Fodor’s Africa and the Middle East Forum http://www.fodors.com
The Tourist Travel and Field Guide of the Serengeti National Park by Veronica Roodt (ISBN: 0-620-34190-4)
The Tourist Travel and Field Guide of the Ngorongoro Conservation Area by Veronica Roodt (ISBN: 0-620-34191-2
We found our way with a Garmin 60CX GPS, on which we loaded the Tracks4Africa Kenya, Tanzania and Uganda map, which we purchased from the Tracks4Africa website (http://www.tracks4africa.co.za) for R175.00 (~CDN$25). It saved us from becoming hopelessly lost on several occasions.
We also found the following paper/hard copy maps very helpful - we purchased all maps in advance online from http://www.omnimap.com.
The Tourist Map of the Serengeti National Park by Veronica Roodt 2005 edition http://www.veronicaroodt.co.za
Tourist Map of the Ngorongoro Conservation Area by Veronica Roodt 2006 edition
The New Map of Serengeti National Park Wet/Dry Season 2007 by Giovanni Tombazzi http://www.gtmaps.com
The New Map of Northern Tanzania 2007 by Giovanni Tombazzi
Lake Manyara National Park Wet Season/Dry Season by Giovanni Tombazzi with Hoopoe Adventure Tours, Tanzania
New Map of Tarangire National Park (Wet/Dry Season) 2008 by Giovanni Tombazzi
New Map of the Ngorongoro Conservation Area 2003 by Giovanni Tombazzi
Masai Mara Visitor Map Guide by Jacana Maps http://www.jacana.co.za
Itinerary:
30 July House of Waine, Nairobi, Kenya http://www.houseofwaine.com
31 July – 1 August Serian Camp, Masai Mara North Conservancy, Kenya http://www.serian.net
2 August – 7 August Maji Ya Ndege Special Campsite, Mara Triangle, Kenya, http://www.maratriangle.org
8 August Serian Camp, Masai Mara North Conservancy, Kenya http://www.serian.net
9 August Speke Bay Lodge, Tanzania http://www.spekebay.com or http://www.moivaro.com
10–11 August Mareo Special Campsite, Western Corridor, Serengeti National Park, Tanzania, http://www.tanzaniaparks.com
12 August Turner 1 Special Campsite, Seronera, Serengeti National Park, Tanzania
13-15 August Lobo 1 Special Campsite, Lobo, Serengeti National Park, Tanzania
16 August Turner 1 Special Campsite, Seronera, Serengeti National Park, Tanzania
17 August Olduvai Tented Camp, Ngorongoro Conservation Area, Tanzania http://www.africatravelresource.com
18-19 August Lemala Camp, Ngorongoro Crater, http://www.lemalacamp.com
20 August Arusha Coffee Lodge, Arusha, Tanzania http://www.elewana.com
21-23 August Bagayo 1 Special Campsite, Lake Manyara National Park, Tanzania, http://www.tanzaniaparks.com
24-26 August Mbweha Special Campsite, Tarangire National Park, Tanzania, http://www.tanzaniaparks.com
27 August Rivertrees Country Inn, Arusha, Tanzania http://www.rivertrees.com
Highlights
← A very muddy lioness and 3 cubs in Lake Manyara - a 4th cub is out of sight on a branch to the right
Sitting 10m from a lioness and her four cubs that were perched in a tree in Lake Manyara National Park. We were hoping to see the famous tree-climbing lions, but had been warned that it is a rare sighting.
The many playful lionesses that would hide and spring out at each other - such kitten-like behaviour from such fearsome predators.
← A very muddy lioness and 3 cubs in Lake Manyara - a 4th cub is out of sight on a branch to the right
Sitting 10m from a lioness and her four cubs that were perched in a tree in Lake Manyara National Park. We were hoping to see the famous tree-climbing lions, but had been warned that it is a rare sighting.
The many playful lionesses that would hide and spring out at each other - such kitten-like behaviour from such fearsome predators.
Our Masai guides at Olduvai - (l to r) Rayani, Papai and David - on the kopje near the camp at sunset →
The opportunity to interact with the Masai in a non-touristy setting at Olduvai Tented Camp in the Ngorongoro Conservation Area in Tanzania - particularly the walk at sunset.
The sound of the cow bells as the Masai herders led their cattle through the Ngorongoro highlands.
The reaction of the Masai to our feeble attempts to speak their (Maa) language. They were so gracious, and many took the time to teach us more words and help us with our pronunciation.
Our impromptu chat with Ben and Peter, two Masai warriors from the village of Ilkinye, on the road just north of Oloololo Gate in Kenya.
The opportunity to interact with the Masai in a non-touristy setting at Olduvai Tented Camp in the Ngorongoro Conservation Area in Tanzania - particularly the walk at sunset.
The sound of the cow bells as the Masai herders led their cattle through the Ngorongoro highlands.
The reaction of the Masai to our feeble attempts to speak their (Maa) language. They were so gracious, and many took the time to teach us more words and help us with our pronunciation.
Our impromptu chat with Ben and Peter, two Masai warriors from the village of Ilkinye, on the road just north of Oloololo Gate in Kenya.
← The wildebeest migration in the Masai Mara
The number of wildebeest in the Mara Triangle was staggering. We parted seas of wildebeests as we drove down the roads. We could see undulating lines of migrating wildebeest stretching for kilometres to the horizon.
The sound of the migrating wildebeests - somewhere between a giant bullfrog and a bleating sheep! We could hear them from our tent at night.
The number of wildebeest in the Mara Triangle was staggering. We parted seas of wildebeests as we drove down the roads. We could see undulating lines of migrating wildebeest stretching for kilometres to the horizon.
The sound of the migrating wildebeests - somewhere between a giant bullfrog and a bleating sheep! We could hear them from our tent at night.
The leopard →
Going bush near Rekero Tented Camp in the Mara Reserve to watch a leopard stalk an impala.
Going bush near Rekero Tented Camp in the Mara Reserve to watch a leopard stalk an impala.
← The road south of the village of Mararianda in Kenya
The 2005 Land Rover Defender 110 Tdi, which took us safely along some of the worst roads in the world - the road between the Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater comes to mind.
The last stretch of road north to the village of Mararianta from the Mara in Kenya. Picture a streambed with huge boulders, large rocks, loose gravel and sand. Tip it up 40° and you get the idea. We stood at the bottom and debated whether it could possibly be the road, but our GPS confirmed that it was. How the Land Rover made it to the top is a mystery. The 4x4 only got stuck once, when it got hung up on a large boulder. One of the more memorable drives of the trip!
The 2005 Land Rover Defender 110 Tdi, which took us safely along some of the worst roads in the world - the road between the Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater comes to mind.
The last stretch of road north to the village of Mararianta from the Mara in Kenya. Picture a streambed with huge boulders, large rocks, loose gravel and sand. Tip it up 40° and you get the idea. We stood at the bottom and debated whether it could possibly be the road, but our GPS confirmed that it was. How the Land Rover made it to the top is a mystery. The 4x4 only got stuck once, when it got hung up on a large boulder. One of the more memorable drives of the trip!
A cheetah in the Seronera region of the Serengeti →
As we drove down a road near Seronera in the Serengeti, a cheetah wandered out of the long grass and crossed the road in front of our vehicle.
On another day, we found a cheetah relaxing beside the road on the Grumeti River Loop in the Lobo area of the Serengeti. We sat with her for over an hour with no other vehicles interrupting our visit. She was being as pestered by the tsetse flies as we were.
As we drove down a road near Seronera in the Serengeti, a cheetah wandered out of the long grass and crossed the road in front of our vehicle.
On another day, we found a cheetah relaxing beside the road on the Grumeti River Loop in the Lobo area of the Serengeti. We sat with her for over an hour with no other vehicles interrupting our visit. She was being as pestered by the tsetse flies as we were.
← A wildebeest being pursued by three spotted hyena in the Ngorongoro Crater of Tanzania
As we sat amongst a pride of sixteen lions in the Ngorongoro Crater at dawn one morning, a wildebeest with three spotted hyena in hot pursuit went racing by. We abandoned the lions and followed the chase. At one point, the wildebeest and hyena turned and ran straight at our Land Rover, passing within a few metres of us.
We learned very quickly that, if we wanted to see lions in the Ngorongoro Crater, we simply had to head to the Munge River. The lions were there every morning at dawn.
As we sat amongst a pride of sixteen lions in the Ngorongoro Crater at dawn one morning, a wildebeest with three spotted hyena in hot pursuit went racing by. We abandoned the lions and followed the chase. At one point, the wildebeest and hyena turned and ran straight at our Land Rover, passing within a few metres of us.
We learned very quickly that, if we wanted to see lions in the Ngorongoro Crater, we simply had to head to the Munge River. The lions were there every morning at dawn.
A grey crowned crane →
We loved the crowned cranes in the Ngorongoro Crater. They were beautiful as they displayed in the early morning light.
Over one hundred species of birds, some of which were new to us. We especially enjoyed the grey crowned cranes, bare-faced go-away birds, yellow-collared lovebirds, superb starlings, palm swifts, lilac-breasted rollers, white-headed buffalo weavers, red-cheeked Cordon-bleus, red and yellow barbets, African firefinches, little bee-eaters and southern ground hornbills.
We loved the crowned cranes in the Ngorongoro Crater. They were beautiful as they displayed in the early morning light.
Over one hundred species of birds, some of which were new to us. We especially enjoyed the grey crowned cranes, bare-faced go-away birds, yellow-collared lovebirds, superb starlings, palm swifts, lilac-breasted rollers, white-headed buffalo weavers, red-cheeked Cordon-bleus, red and yellow barbets, African firefinches, little bee-eaters and southern ground hornbills.
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